What variables go into it and how accurate can it be, even days in advance?
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Imagine waves as big, watery hills moving across the ocean. To forecast these waves, experts use lots of data, like wind speed, direction, and how long the wind blows. They also look at the ocean’s depth and shape of the seabed.
By using computer models, they predict how these factors will interact to create waves. The more data they have, the better their forecast. While they can predict waves days in advance, accuracy can vary because the ocean is always changing. But with advanced technology and more data, forecasts are getting better all the time.
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