Eli5: How nose-riding in surfing works


So I surf, and the other day a friend of mine finally managed to noseride on his longboard. Can someone explain how this work, I understand the physics of surfing in general, but surely the added pressure to the front of the board would just cause it to dip and then flip over?

In: 7

Typically for nose riding, the other end of the board will be inside the wave. If you are hanging ten, at least some of the wave will be falling onto the back end of your board. This is what prevents you from just nosediving your board when you move forward.

I see the wave crashing on the tail has been mentioned, and that is definitely a part of it. The other part of it is drag, both along the bottom surface of the board and perhaps more importantly, on your fin. Fin choice can really affect how a board noserides. Bigger fins create more drag, and more drag helps to balance out the weight you’re putting on the nose. If you look at a classic noserider shape, they usually have a wide, square tail and a bigger fin.