I am about going to the beach, and a lot of people are warning me to watch out for rip currents, but I don’t know why they occur or why they are so dangerous.
In: 8
A lot of rip currents happen when the shore forms a U or V shape. Even a small variation can make a difference. When the wave comes in it comes at a straight line. Now, as the line – hits the curved parts of the U the water continues going forward and a little bit in, the water is deflected in a little then continues forward. Once the water hits the furthest inland portion, it has accumulated a lot more water in that area and all has to go back out. Since there isn’t anything blocking the way, a large current of water flows back out straight from this point (the bottom of the U in my example).
To be clear, it doesn’t have to be a U shape, just a section where the shore is curved and will redirect the flow to the center of the curve.
Latest Answers