Having observed a few longboarders in small to moderate surf recently, I haven’t worked out how the board can hold it’s pitch on the wave even when the surfer walks forwards and back. Is it related to board weight or some other function?
In: 2
The amount of upward force on the board is equal to the downward force on the front of the board. While that is happening, the surfer is adjusting how much surface area the forces are impacting the board. To keep the board from tipping standing at the nose, more surface area of the board needs to be pushed up by the water. To keep the board from tipping at the tail, less surface area.
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