What is cocoa processed with alkali, and why is the alkali part notable enough to put on the ingredients list?
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Cocoa is naturally slightly acidic.
In the 19th Century, a Dutch chocolatier came up with the idea of washing cacao nibs with a light alkaline solution – traditionally potassium carbonate, but sometimes sodium bicarbonate a.k.a baking soda. This is the “alkali solution” on the ingredient list.
This reduces the acidity (or makes it slightly basic), and also destroys/converts several compounds in the future-cocoa, including several of the flavor compounds. The end result is said to taste “darker”, “smoother”, “less sharp”, “less bitter”, “less fruity”, and sometimes “more chocolatey”.
Aside from the flavor differences, Dutch process cocoa also works differently in baked goods (natural cocoa can often be used with baking soda as a leavener; Dutch process cocoa needs another acid or baking powder), and *may* last longer in storage.
I have never been able to figure out *why* van Houten decided to wash his defatted cocoa beans with alkali water, but clearly he decided it was a good idea and others have agreed.
Note that there is effectively no alkaline component in the final product; it’s all “consumed” during the Dutching process.
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