I live in Montana but am not native to the northwest, from the south originally. I don’t own a car (walkable cities ftw) so I’m exposed to the elements almost daily. I’ve been making it work in the winters with layering and clutch thrift store finds but I still don’t fundamentally understand what determines good vs bad fabrics/coats/socks for this climate. Please help!
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Wool will keep you warm, though not dry. You’re doing well by layering. Smart Wool is very good.
Layers are the name of the game. And not clingy layers either, you want air gaps between them. For reasonably cold weather and not like, a blizzard, you’ll be fine with a top layer that’s thin but waterproof, and a bottom layer that’s more insulating like wool.
Wool. Wool sweaters, wool socks, wool long underwear.
If you are trying to stay warm, stay away from cotton. Cotton is a heat sink, you will freeze.
As others have said, layers is good planning. Underlayers should be wool, linen, or silk. Outer layers can be man-made fabrics, or natural.
You will want good boots for snowy conditions. This will be pricey, but worth it. It is *so* much easier to stay warm if your feet are warm.
Disclaimer: i have more experience with hiking gear for cold/wet climates, but I’m sure it also applies somewhat for everyday wear.
Layering is a good idea. When layering, each layer should fulfill a separate purpose. These are the typical layers for top-wear:
* The base-layer should be comfortable and breathable. If you are not going to sweat, cotton is ok. If you might sweat, then a synthetic polyester base layer can help wick away the sweat. If money is not an issue, merino wool is even better because wool is antibacterial and so you won’t smell even if you sweat all day.
* The mid-layer should be warm yet still breathable. Fleece is very common for a mid-layer.
* The insulation layer will help you keep heat close to your body. Down (or synthetic down) is really good at this. I personally like to wear a sleeveless down vest because it blocks less airflow to your lower layers and therefore allows sweat to be delivered outside through the arm pits. The important thing is that the insulation layer does not get wet or it loses its function, that’s why the next layer is…
* The top layer, designed to keep you dry from outside. Since the top layer will not be a very breathable material, a wide and airy cut is good. A rain jacket with ventilation cuts under your arms is great if you are very active. If you’re just commuting, a woolen coat will also work well enough in light rain or even heavy snow. Complement with an umbrella in heavy rain.
For bottom-wear you can layer similarly. Polyester underwear, woolen or cotton long johns if it’s very cold, and whatever you prefer for pants (Jeans are ok). If it’s very cold and wet, hardshell pants. If you are out in the rain all day, you might also want gaiters. They make it so rainwater runs off outside of your shoes and not into your shoes.
In addition to layering and wool other recommend, get some insulating boots (or semi insulat + woolen socks).
Also, warm headwear: hat, beanie or similar. A lot of heat escapes from the head, and a beanie is easy to take off as soon as you get too warm.
To break off from the other discussions, it’s not the fabric that keeps you warm. It’s air that keeps you warm, it’s a much better insulator than the others.
So, you need a layer like polyester to wick the sweat away, because water can displace air and keep you cold.
Then you need a layer with a lot of air, like wool or down, because air keeps you warm.
Then you need a waterproof outer layer, like Gortex, to keep water off you because water can displace air in the fabric and make you cold.
The right winter gear doesn’t require active layering. For me, a layer of long sleeve shirts and sweatpants covered by a solid, multilayer winter coat and snow pants is plenty for even blizzards in the alpine of Colorado usually. Worst case I throw on a hoodie as well.
The real important things not to skip or cheap out on are gloves, socks, shoes, head/neckwear like scarves, hats and masks. If you do those right you can get away with a lot of mistakes on the layers of your body.
What works for one person may not work for another.
Choosing the right outfit not only depends on the conditions, but also for how long you’ll be outside, and how active physically you’ll be while outside. Are you running from car to grocery store and back, or from car to long mountain hike?
I saw one person write this: space and air.
It is possible to overlayer. By having too tight of clothing reduces space, so no heat can be trapped.
Remember, you are the heat source. You’re heat will be warming first your inner layer l, migrating to the outer layers. If the innermost layer is wet (from sweat or other) it will accelerate heat loss. For this reason, cotton is not recommended as it tends to cling to moisture. Base layers which are moisture wicking will be your friend. Wool also creates loft, is slower to dry out, but has the advantage that it still helps to keep you warm while damp (but not as well than if it’s dry).
If you’ll be sweating or wearing the outfit throughout the day, it will need to be able to breath to let your moisture go.
Layers are essential. A water repellent outer layer is typically recommended, ideally with a breathable fabric which allows the moisture of perspiration to escape. Such a layer should also help repel the wind. In conditions that don’t require full arctic kit, but are still well below freezing, I typically go with silk or nylon/polyester or polycotton blend underlayer, to include sock liners. I will then follow with a fuzzy fleece out layer and thick wool socks. Atop all of this I will have a water/weather proof outer layer. I make every effort to focus on areas where heat loss is most rapid, such as my head, eyes, mouth and areas where the blood runs close to the body, such as wrists and digits. If possible, layers and pit zips help me regulate perspiration and overheating risks during periods of activity.
Echoing what others have already said, it’s the tiny pockets of air in sherpa and fleece lined things that keep you warm. Some synthetics and wool do a better job of retaining heat when wet. When cotton or denim get wet, they do a terrible job of retaining warmth. Stopping wind and water are important to retaining heat. I’ve slept in arctic conditions without tents with the right gear. Regardless of the circumstances staying warm in sub freezing temps has a diminishing return on your caloric energy investment, regardless of the efficiency of your gear. Gear to limit heat loss for hours is plentiful. Keeping your water, ammo, food, and other essential goods from freezing is another matter entirely. Most batteries will lose their efficiency as well. Moving from extreme cold to warm temps, or vice versa, rapidly can cause skin problems and damage to certain materials and electronics. When in extreme cold, I keep my water close to my body so it doesn’t freeze and anything with a screen that condensation could develop in as well.
You have good comments, but something to add:
Yes, boots are important, but don’t skimp on good gloves. You can’t do much with cold fingers.
For cold weather layering I usually do an under layer that’s warm and comfortable, sort of like thick pajamas. As others have said, wool and other natural fibers are great. If you hit the thrift stores in a few weeks you might find a good selection for cheap. I usually buy a size larger than I need.
On top of the warm comfy layer I do something like a thin plastic shell that will keep wind and water out.
I usually also do a regular shirt and pants underneath so that if I wind up in a warm place I can peel off the outside clothes and still be presentable.
That usually winds up being thick wool socks, boots, long PJs, snow pants, t shirt, thick shirt, wool sweater, plastic outside layer coat, gloves, cap. The plastic outside coat also has a hood.
But seriously, check with the locals. You’ll likely be dealing with colder stuff than I’ve seen. It’s also a chance to meet people.
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