Eli5: How nose-riding in surfing works

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So I surf, and the other day a friend of mine finally managed to noseride on his longboard. Can someone explain how this work, I understand the physics of surfing in general, but surely the added pressure to the front of the board would just cause it to dip and then flip over?

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Anonymous 0 Comments

I see the wave crashing on the tail has been mentioned, and that is definitely a part of it. The other part of it is drag, both along the bottom surface of the board and perhaps more importantly, on your fin. Fin choice can really affect how a board noserides. Bigger fins create more drag, and more drag helps to balance out the weight you’re putting on the nose. If you look at a classic noserider shape, they usually have a wide, square tail and a bigger fin.

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