Eli5: How nose-riding in surfing works

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So I surf, and the other day a friend of mine finally managed to noseride on his longboard. Can someone explain how this work, I understand the physics of surfing in general, but surely the added pressure to the front of the board would just cause it to dip and then flip over?

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Anonymous 0 Comments

Typically for nose riding, the other end of the board will be inside the wave. If you are hanging ten, at least some of the wave will be falling onto the back end of your board. This is what prevents you from just nosediving your board when you move forward.

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