I get that the moon caused the tide to go in and out but the steady rhythm of the waves going back and forth is puzzling me
In: Physics
Wind! As it blows across still water, friction causes the water to bunch up like a rug. The more it bunches up, the more only the top is blown by wind, making the waves bigger.
The biggest waves in the world are in spots where there is a very long, uninterrupted stretch of ocean that wind often blows along.
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