How are steep and difficult mountains like K2, Annapurna, Jannu climbed for the first time without ropes, ladders and harnesses from above for support?
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Exactly the way you described: without ropes, ladders, or harnesses from above for support. By people with much bigger balls than us, so that we may follow after them with the stuff they set up once they got to the top.
The first climber is climbing above their gear, setting new anchors and hooking into them. The last climber in the team removes the anchors. If anyone falls they will be caught by the other team members through the anchors along the route.
What you’re describing is called “Top rope”, which is how many people rock climb for the first time. As you said, you need the rope to be anchored on top of what you are climbing. It’s a great way to learn because you can never fall very far, so long as your partner is good at belaying (holding the rope).
When climbing something like a mountain, you need to “lead climb”. This is when you start with your partner and the rope on the ground. One person climbs first (the leader) and they place anchors in the rock as they go. If they fall, they fall a lot further since the anchor is below them, but if done correctly this can be very safe. After they reach the end of their rope, the “leader” makes an anchor and belays their partner up to where they are. Then a “leader” climbs again, and they inch-worm their way up the rock or mountain.
They weren’t summited. (without gear)
They were only summited until basic gear would allow it. We “discovered” steel in the 1300’s
We didn’t summit most of these mountains until the 1900’s
Most if not all things you listed were used to summit the mountains.
Correct me if I’m wrong. Climbing some of the mountain is not summiting. – Have you heard of people summiting without this gear?
Let’s not forget: with the labour and expertise of locals who are acclimated to the area and understand the terrain better than those who have traveled in to attempt the climb.
What everyone else has said, but I’ll simplify it further.
Someone has to get there first to place gear. At those heights, you can’t take a chopper up and drop in. The air is too thin. It is pure guts, experience, trust in your climbing partners and technique that will get you there.
Another point, all these are icy peaks, you would have to dig/drill pretty deep unless you find exposed rock to place a permanent anchor, and chances are, next season, that anchor may be covered in ice. Also, not many people want to carry drills/batteries, glue and anchor equipment up with them, so there probably aren’t many permanent anchors if any. Just reference points written in guide books of where there might be a good spot.
Everest is actually an easier climb in some respects. It isn’t considered a technical climb. Most of the deaths are caused by tourist climbers and traffic jams. The Sherpas are used to the area and can place ladders and ropes in some stable areas, but the rest is always up to the first ascenders of the season.
Lead climbing.
The first person climbs, placing anchors and hooking in to them as they climb, with someone holding the rope at the bottom.
This means that if they fall, they will fall the distance back down to the last anchor, and the same distance again (taking up the slack in the rope). So they place anchors at suitable distances so that while uncomfortable, a fall should not be dangerous.
Once hardware is in place, climbers can transition to using top ropes instead – the rope is run from the climber up to an anchor above them, then to a belay. The rope is kept tight so that if they fall, the rope catches them almost immediately.
It is also worth remembering that a lot of early ascents (and recent ones) are not necessarily done safely, or will require other techniques. Climbing long distances up lesser grades for example may not be practical with fixed lines, so will put more trust in the climbers ability not to fall on easier routes, having climbers tied together, but not to any anchor point – meaning if one should fall they will be caught by the other members in the party. And a lot of early ascents may have been done with no safety line at all and just accepting the risks…
I thought OP was asking more about “how does (someone) climb a mountain that has never been climbed. ”
Answer ~that~ ::))
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