Although there may not be any specific experts in the field, general experts can still evaluate the PhD candidate’s research. There may not be a PhD in Gin, but there are probably many experts on the history of alcohol. Or, if you are studying gin in 19th century England, there are many social historians of 19th century England. They don’t have the precise knowledge, but have a good enough idea.
Also, just about any scholar can read a dissertation and judge how scholarly it is. A large part of become a PhD is understanding the research process. An evaluator can examine your process and see if you are taking the right steps, using the proper precautions, examining things with various points of view, etc. A person may not know anything about gin, but they do know a good dissertation.
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