The process of adding annatto is one of those “if a little is good a lot is better” situations. When cows grazed on mountain pastures in the late spring and early summer the grass was richer in beta carotene, which gave the cheeses a yellow-ish pale orange hue. Cheese mongers figured out that those cheese sold better, better more complex flavors, to the exclusion of the winter/spring cheese as the flavors were leaner. Some makers decided that adding a little coloring into their milk helped sell those other cheese then it became a race to the limit. You’ll notice that there is now a trend to not color cheese, especially cheddar and that people think that “white cheddar” is a totally new thing.
The orange color is added after the milk is gathered. It’s a natural seed called annatto and is added to the milk to give cheese from multiple milk sources a uniform color.
Grassfed cow’s milk will have a natural yellow tint from the beta carotene in the grass. If no annatto is added, the cheese will be yellowish. Think Kerrygold.
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