Human tongues have taste buds that react to chemicals called glutamates and nucleotides, and these are often found in protein rich and fermented foods. So we taste umami the same way we taste other things like salty (our receptors react chemically with the salt ions), sweet (with various sugars) etc. A tiny bit of chemical binds to the receptor, which initiates a chemical reaction in the neuron, which ultimately sends a signal to the brain that says “umami/salty/sweet” (and most likely a combination of many things).
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