How do waves work? Why are they moving?

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Why does “the water is higher at this point” induces “in ten second, the water will ba at normal level at this point but higher 1 meter away”?

In: Physics

3 Answers

Anonymous 0 Comments

Earth’s water is a dynamic system. There’s a lot of energy going through it and that energy moves the water. For instance at the surface, wind pushes on the water and causes waves to roll around.

Earth’s water is a dynamic system. There’s a lot of energy going through it and that energy moves the water. For instance, at the surface, wind acts on the water and causes waves to roll around. This is how ocean currents are caused for instance. These systems are so large that the ocean currents in turn affect the weather and climate around the planet as the currents transport heat and cold.

And even gravity has an effect. The moon’s gravity is what causes the tides. As the moon orbits the Earth, its gravitational pull acts on different parts of the Earth’s oceans, causing the tides to come in and go out.

Anonymous 0 Comments

Put some water in a pot and blow on it.
You are pushing the top layer of water along, this rises up and moves. But because of gravity it must go down, and since there is water below it the water can be easily dispersed. This pushes other water out of the way and the effect is carried over and over creating a cycle of rising water and falling water which can move big distances. This is called a swell

Anonymous 0 Comments

> Why does “the water is higher at this point” induces “in ten second, the water will ba at normal level at this point but higher 1 meter away”?

It is the other way around. We have been observing this, and we call this phenomenon: “wave”.