How do waves work? Why are they moving?

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Why does “the water is higher at this point” induces “in ten second, the water will ba at normal level at this point but higher 1 meter away”?

In: Physics

3 Answers

Anonymous 0 Comments

Put some water in a pot and blow on it.
You are pushing the top layer of water along, this rises up and moves. But because of gravity it must go down, and since there is water below it the water can be easily dispersed. This pushes other water out of the way and the effect is carried over and over creating a cycle of rising water and falling water which can move big distances. This is called a swell

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